Turn over almost any skincare product and you will find a long list of unfamiliar names. Once you know how the list works, it becomes one of the most useful tools you have for choosing products well.
How an ingredient list works
- Order matters. Ingredients are listed from highest to lowest concentration, down to about 1%. Below that, they can appear in any order.
- Names follow INCI. The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients gives every ingredient a standard name, so "Aqua" is water and "Butyrospermum Parkii Butter" is shea butter. Botanicals use Latin names.
- The first five ingredients usually make up most of the formula. If a hero ingredient appears near the very end, there is likely only a small amount.
- Fragrance and essential oils are listed as "Parfum" or by name. If your skin is sensitive, these are worth noticing.
If a hero ingredient appears near the very end, there is likely only a small amount.
Niacinamide
On the label: Niacinamide.
What it is: a form of vitamin B3. It is one of the most studied and best-tolerated skincare ingredients.
Why it is used: niacinamide is commonly chosen to help with the look of oiliness, enlarged pores and uneven tone, and to support the skin's natural barrier. Concentrations of 2 to 5% are common; higher strengths are not always better and can irritate some people.
Good to know: it pairs well with most other ingredients, including hyaluronic acid and retinoids.
Hyaluronic acid
On the label: Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, or Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid.
What it is: a humectant, meaning it attracts and holds water. Our skin makes it naturally.
Why it is used: to hydrate and plump the skin's surface, which can make skin look smoother. Products often combine several molecular sizes, sometimes labelled "low molecular", so it hydrates at different layers of the surface.
Good to know: apply it to slightly damp skin and follow with a moisturiser to seal the hydration in, especially in dry climates or air-conditioned rooms.
Ceramides
On the label: Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, and similar names.
What they are: lipids, or fats, that make up a large part of the skin's outer barrier. Think of skin cells as bricks and ceramides as part of the mortar holding them together.
Why they are used: to support a dry, tight or easily irritated skin barrier. They are often paired with cholesterol and fatty acids, which work alongside them.
Good to know: ceramides are especially helpful in winter, after over-exfoliating, or when using strong actives such as retinoids.
Three quick label checks before you buy
- Is the ingredient you are paying for near the top? If not, ask yourself whether the price reflects the formula.
- Is there anything you know your skin dislikes? Common culprits include fragrance, some essential oils and high-strength acids.
- Is it the right texture for your skin type? Oils and butters near the top suit dry skin; water and gels suit oily skin.
If you have a skin condition, or a product causes redness, stinging or a rash that does not settle, stop using it and speak to your GP, dermatologist or pharmacist.
Explore products by ingredient: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, or browse the full skin range.
This guide is general information only and is not medical advice. If you have a skin or health condition, are pregnant or breastfeeding, or take medication, speak to your GP, pharmacist or dermatologist before changing your routine.
